Raininy nasty all morning. Mtn bike trails alone. Brown water early. Surfed some at pavillions. Big a close out/walled out on most. Watched it for a while, nailed the paddle out through the break from wactching and picking the spot and time. Pulled into a few fast steep rights that shut down fast....still fun to ride a steep wall for a few seconds. Cureent was nuts..drifting to Ptrees. paddled like mad, got back into spot, pulled up on a walled out wave...Happy could see it and not go..learning. Finally got one good right and made it out to the shoulder. Samll difficult waves by peir rest of the day. Really really tired..not feeling strong at all
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