A month ago Walter Brown called me got back from running a R2R2R and asked if I would run a R2R2R with him after Thanksgiving. We decided to open it up to anyone interested and within a week there were 16 runners who wanted to go. I knew the preparation for this run and that what hit you during it, wasn't anything that could be understood until you did it, so a group would take a different approach. Obviously some runners like Clyde, Walter, and Christie didn't need much more than our normal planning, but the rest would take some prep. Walter quickly had a message board running between commited runners for the expedition and we went over 1,000 responses going through the preparation. We set up a separate message board for the 4 or 5 runners that I considered seriously fit to discuss beforehand how to safely carry the rest if it was needed. I got personal numbers for rangers that were staffing the North, South and Phantom Ranch stations and kept in touch, especially as the snow hit in the week before. After we had an idea of who wanted to come, we had to call a few and do the worst part of it, telling them they couldn't do it because it would be too hard. We set up ground rules for the run such as no leaving anyone behind and places to call it off. As a few weeks went by several more fell out due to work, family, and intelligence. We ended up with 11 runners at the Canyon Saturday.
I picked up runners as we headed South with the motorhome and I felt before the run that the drive would be one of the best parts since there were so many different runners from so many different backgrounds. The group was pretty strong, and we took the time heading down to split up the emergency equipment and assess everybody's water, packs, and gear. Honestly everyone was way more organized than me so that was redundant. Somewhere in BFE the RV blew out a tire. Since this was a big diesel the tire was not something easy to find and I ended up putting a used one on that the truck stop recommended. This tire then blew out 30 miles from the North Rim campground, later we found out that the size they used would cause that within 100 miles. Lesson learned. We drove the rest of the way to the trailhead on the single since it was one of the duallies on the back axle, and parked the RV in the parking lot at the Kaibab trailhead as planned. The rangers were aware of us coming and had told me that since the park was officially closed on the North that we were "day use" only. The last ranger staffed at the Rim was there until the day before. She suggested leaving a note in the window that we were out hiking and would "soon be back", since camping and RVs are forbidden right now. Turns out any rangers on this trip that we ran into were awesome.
The snow was over 12 inches when we arrived and the temp was low 20s and dropping. Weather radar looked good and all the forcasts were clear. Brett and I went out as soon as we parked and ran the first quarter mile of the trail to get a feel if we needed crampons, spikes, or just run with regular shoes. Some decided to run with spikes and some without. It was immediately clear to me that I wouldn't be able to do the planned run with the group. There was no way I wanted to run back to a broken RV a day later with a group and possible emergencies. I'd have to stay behind and get it fixed. This could take a day or more since we were so remote and roadside assistance takes hours sometimes since the insurance company bids repair against each other and picks the cheapest. I also had been working through the run, conditions of the group, and especially the cold, in my head as we drove down. The cold worried me above all since I had experienced the huge drop in temp only a few weeks before after mile 35 coming up the North Rim. I felt better about the run if there was someone who could head back into the canyon if there was anyone stuck at the end. Everyone opposed the decision for me to stay behind which I appreciated. We were a good group.
We got up at 4am after a quick, cold night. The stars were so stinking bright, and it was seriously cold! My plan was to run with the group to the bottom of the canyon and come back up since I couldn't get going on repairs anyways until 9am. That would also give me a chance to meet with the other three runners of the group coming from St George who wanted to drive in early morning and start at 6:30am. I could also pick up their car and use it for coordination. The trail was awesome. We quickly warmed up and within a half mile the snow was gone. It reminded me of when I ran with Rob Murphy the first time in the canyon because the feel is just surreal. In a while the group began splitting into small groups of two or three of similar strengths and it was obvious that any plan of staying together as a big group was not really possible. There are just too many different ways people run. After reaching Roaring Springs with Clyde, Walter, Christie, and Brett, I turned around and headed back up. The next group of three runners was half a mile behind and I joined them and went back back down. It was a good chance to see how everyone there was feeling. I then left them, turned around and headed back up, running into Wan another half mile back on his own. I ran with him down for a mile and encouraged him to link up with the two just ahead. Now as I headed up there was only one more of the starting group and I was worried because it was over 1.5 miles before I reached her. On the North Rim that is an eternity. She had reached the first bridge, 2.3 miles down, and was by my watch doing a 24 minute per mile pace. She was floored by the steepness, I estimated her HR at 170 and she had been sitting for 15 minutes before I reached her. I immediately told her it was done and to head back up with me. She didn't argue at all.
It took two hours to get back up with her since she could only go 10 minutes and sit down to recover. She had run several marathons, a 50 mile Ultra, and paced Halfs for Walter's Pace company so this was a pretty depressing experience for her. My heart went out for her. About a mile from the Rim at 7,000 feet we decided that I'd have to leave her to run up and catch the last three guys that were starting at 6:30 so we didn't miss them. I told her that I would be back to finish the hike with her and headed up. In five minutes I ran into Ben, John, and Steve Hooper coming down. They looked amazing strong. We talked about the runners ahead, made some quick plans, and I headed up to the RV. Maurine made it back up just as I was heading back down for her. By this time I was aware that there was a good inversion in the canyon and that the R2R2R runners would be in it most of the day. Maurine and I drove the 2 miles from the trailhead to the North Rim overlook and lo and behold I got cell reception! Stranger yet, the gift shop was open. One lady who looked like a carny was staffing it, sitting by a space heater, and said that with budget cuts the NPS had no rangers on the North Rim but felt it was better for public relations that at least one person staffed the gift shop for another week. It took three hours of phone calls to places from Falgstaff, Salt Lake and St George looking for the right tire and someone who was open on Thanksgiving weekend. In the end a company company drove up from Falgstaff five hours away with two tires since I didn't want just the one replaced. They said that they would be up at 7pm and so we headed back to the motorhome. Thank goodness for Roadside coverage since this $2,700 expense was covered. (except for the tires...) As we were heading down I saw a ranger truck on the road and stopped him. He said he was doing the drive patrol for the day and was actually excited about our group running. He was cool with the RV being in a place where no camping or overnighting was allowed and even offered to help me pull the wheel with their shop equipment.
In the few minutes on the North Rim that I had reception I called Walter who had just reached the South Rim with the first group. It was only 10am, they killed it! They had decided to take the South Kaibab route and the shuttle over to the South Visitor's Center, then back across via Bright Angel. They could talk to each small group as they came back. At 2pm when I had caught up with repair arrangements and checking on everyone I headed back down the North Rim. I had a big pack full of extra clothes, water, first aid, "real food", dry socks etc. I was pretty worried about the quickly dropping temperature. I came up on the lead group near the ranger station at the bottom and Walter was struggling. He had been sick and was not able to get enough in. He also had some leg cramps. We divied out dry clothes and made some compression thigh supports by tearing out the ends of some socks for Walter. Clyde and Christie headed up and I stayed with Walter. He was toast, but at least taking in water. He was like a machine and I loved this part of the run the most, just talking about life. Finally we stopped again and he ate almost an entire bag of Fritos. I begged him to not hurl these near me as we climbed. In the next hour he got stronger and stronger and pretty much took off. We eventually caught up to Clyde and Christie and then just a couple hundred yards from the Rim he sat down. I was seriously freezing, hands numb and shaking, and was pointing out the trailhead end visible just above us. He got up and powered it through.
The repair guys had showed up early and had finished already so I just had to drive up to the North Rim with them where there was reception and settle the bill. That's another story...
In a few hours Steve and John showed up at the RV from their double crossing-awesome! They confirmed that Ben had called it off reaching the South Rim and had called his wife to pick him up. It was 8pm by now and really cold. Walter and I drove up quick to the North Rim again and checked messages while Christie dragged Clyde out for another 4 miles so they could have an even 50. Two runners had checked in from the South Rim on my messages so we knew they were coming back. We checked in with their family emergency numbers to reassure families at home and headed back to the RV. It was now just past 9pm and I put together another pack of things to head back down the North Rim for the last three runners. I had some sleeping bags, dry clothes, water and food. I hit the bathroom one last time. Man, I really didn't want to run the North Rim for the fourth time, maybe even sleeping overnight on it. Just then there was some shouting from outside. The last group of three had showed up.
Eight of our group finished, two women (both as strong as any of the guys). As far as I'm aware, the biggest group that has completed a R2R2R together in a day. Everybody was crashed or too pumped up to crash but we eventually got the lights out for some sleep and headed back in the morning. What a cool experience, from a solo a few weeks ago to sharing the experience with a group.
Walter Brown, Maurine Lee, Christie Crompel, Clyde Behunin, John Beckstrom, Brett Peterson, Ben Ford, Wan Hou Jerry Kou, Mandi Mcbride, Steve Hooper, me.
This is a short entry from Wan this morning; his Facebook post to his friends on his own experience Saturday. He's a 50 year old immigrant from China, and a chef who teaches at SLC community college who cooked for us on the trip and ran the whole thing. He ran by himself after somehow getting separated from the other two from the South Rim to the bottom of the North, mostly in the dark, where he caught up with Brett and Mandi for the final climb:
R2R2R
This Grand Canyon expedition, ultra marathon, was truly an epic and once in a lifetime adventure. The experience was beyond words could describe. Countless of prayers, silence and aloud were answered; doubts gave ways; mental toughness was strengthened; and physical endurance was put to the limit. The Holy Ghost pinpointed me in the dark and daylight a crossed the grand canyon corridors from the peak of the North Rim to the bottom of the Colorado River up to the top of Bright Angel at the South Rim then back to the North Rim.
The entire journey covered 46 trial miles and climbed over 22 thousands feet elevation; endured 17 °F on an icy vertical drop trial on the north to the boned chill of 22 °F on the south; did all these in 14 hours.
My heartfelt thanks to a group of elite runners who I admire enormously allowed me to be a tiny part of their lives. I am profoundly grateful to my wife and children for their love and support; they were the reasons I did this in a dramatic way. I express my deepest gratitude to my Heavenly Father who gave me life to enjoy one of His greatest creations on earth, the Grand Canyon.
Trail running enhances life
Wan Hou Jerry Kou
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