Arms sore, shoulders ache, hammered tired, sun burned and ready for bed. I have surfed everyday for 8 days and today was all day. Not a cloud in the sky, beautiful Hanalei Bay, surrounded by huge green mountains with 1000 ft waterfalls flowing from the tops. Good waves most of the day. I may not have caught the most waves, but for sure no one else was in the water as long as I was today. Last wave right at sunset. Unbeliveable! I could chuck it all and do this everyday. There is nothing like surfing, totally dynamic in every way, the hardest thing I've ever tried. I forget how much I love in the times I don't get to go, but I am hooked! |